Tonia, a transsexual veteran of a transvestite cabaret in Lisbon, watches the world around her collapse: her star status is challenged by the competition of younger artists.
Urged by her young boyfriend Rosario to assume a female identity and to undergo a sex-change operation, Tonia struggles with her most heartfelt religious convictions.
To put space between herself and all her troubles, she leaves for the countryside with Rosario. After they get lost, they find themselves in an enchanted forest, a magical world where they encounter the enigmatic Maria Bakker and her girlfriend Paula. This encounter will turn the world upside down.